How to Care for Your Orchids

Based on cultural instructions originally generated by McBeans Orchids.

Incorporating BMOS Members Suggestions.

PHALAENOPSIS (The "Moth Orchid")

One of the most popular orchids that are very well suited to centrally heated homes, perhaps it’s me but I see these in almost every TV drama, Interview or Home Visit / Documentary lately. These epiphytic orchids growing just beneath the jungle canopy were first discovered in the Philippines and as the usual colour was white and most noticeable in moonlight as arching shimmering sprays they looked like dancing moths hence "Moth Orchid". There has been much hybridisation since so that it is not easy to find samples of species any more. One of the orchids that retains flowers for long periods of time, some of the sturdier hybrids indeed can have its flower stalk(s) in bloom for upwards of three months and it is not unusual for your "moth orchid" to be repeat flowering like a hybrid tea rose. The flower colours now encompass virtually the whole colour spectrum and include contrasting "lips", stripes, blotching, spots and bars of a deeper colour, even differing colours than the main petal background.

CULTIVATION

TEMPERATURE

During the night ideally between 16.5 and 18.5 degrees C all year with a daytime range of between 18.5 and 30 degrees C BUT the higher the temperature the greater the need for humidity and air flow. If the night temperature drops below 12 / 13 degrees C your plant will merely continue to "tick over" and although it may appear to be okay it certainly will not produce either flowers or new growth. If your conditions are near to this minimum keep it quite dry.

LIGHT

Phalaenopsis dislikes direct sunlight, especially through glass so away from the widow, out of direct rays either east or west facing or, alternatively shade the glass with either translucent blind of plants such as ferns.

WATERING

As an Epiphyte the "Moth Orchids" obtain moisture in two ways in the wild, through roots in the growing medium but mainly from the atmosphere through aerial roots. It is these aerial roots that grow away from the pot in the home and they will absorb moisture from the atmosphere so humidity is quite important. However, as a houseplant your "Moth Orchid" will get most of it’s water needs through the growing medium and will need to be aloud to dry out fairly thoroughly between water applications. How often you water depends upon three main things; time of the year, temperature and humidity level. Most Epiphytes grow in the tropics where the one constant factor tends to be the amount of daylight hours, here, in Britain, your plant will grow more during summer and less in the winter than is natural and hybridisation has enhanced this, SO your plant will need more water in summer. The one important factor to remember is that Phalaenopsis have fleshy leaves and roots and with such can rot if water is aloud to be held in leaf junctions or around the roots so unless you are very careful it is perhaps best to fill a plant saucer with water leave for half an hour or so then tip away any excess and thereby let the plant and growing medium take up what is needed. Phalaenopsis is a bit particular about water quality and a mixture of half and half rain and tap water is a recommendation though distilled water will work and I personally have had no trouble with just tap water BUT then mine is soft and without a lot of lime diffused in it.

HUMIDITY

Keeping a humid atmosphere around your Phalaenopsis is good because of the aerial roots so the standard of standing the pot on constantly wet gravel or pebbles but without the base of the pot being in constant contact with water is ideal. The other standard recommendation of growing other plants with your "Moth Orchid" such as ferns that transpire and need lots of water in the soil will also help keep humidity levels (or microclimate conditions) at the required levels.

FEEDING

Although specific orchid feeds are available these tend to be expensive and I find that a standard houseplant feed at half strength such as 5 drops of "Baby Bio" to a litre of water woks fine with the occasional 3rd strength high potash feed such as a tomato feed – liquid feeds are better as they leave less residue in the growing medium and it is always better to flush the medium through once a month with just water.

COMPOST

Free draining is the watchword for Phalaenopsis so bark of a medium grade is best. A mixture of fine and course grade with a little added Perlite also woks.

POTTING

Only repot when necessary, usually when the growing medium deteriorates (when it starts to smell unpleasant), though repotting every 2nd year will not, generally, harm the plant.

OTHER POINTS

Don’t stand your plant too close to a heat source and Phalaenopsis hates draughts. If it loses a lot of leaves you are probably over watering so stop for about a month and new roots MAY grow. When the flower has finish cut the flower stalk just above the 2nd node back from the first flower point and often a secondary spike will arise. If your plant is healthy but not produced a spike in over 6 months try reducing the temperature by 5 degrees C for about a month, as this SHOULD encourage flowering.